September 23 - Days 101 - 103 - Grand Canyon

We departed Glendale, Utah for the Grand Canyon at 8:00 am, heading South on US89 to Fredonia, Arizona where we turned off onto US89A toward the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. Arriving at Jacob Lake, we made a mistake. Instead of parking the RV at the Jacob Lake Cafe parking lot and taking the toad into the North Rim, we continued on with the coach for the 45 mile trip on highway 67. Arriving at the North Rim Lodge, we discovered there is no place to park an RV without taking up a dozen or so car parking spots. We couldn't do that so we stopped, took a couple of quick photos, and headed back to Jacob Lake without seeing the lodge or the great vista from the front of the lodge. Oh, well ....

The trip from Jacob Lake to the South Rim is a couple of hundred miles of spectacular scenery. First, you drop down into the Colorado River valley, a descent of more over 3,000 feet, then you travel up the river with magnificent vermilion cliffs on the North side. Reaching Lees Ferry, where the Grand Canyon officially begins, you cross the Colorado River and head South with the vermilion cliffs now on the South side.

Passing through Navajo country with roadside vendors selling all sorts of native arts and crafts, one finally arrives at AZ 64, which heads West to Grand Canyon Village. Shorthly after reaching the park entrance (another $25 saving thanks to the senior pass!), we soon had our first real look at the Grand Canyon in all its glory. We didn't stop with the coach because parking space was limited. Instead we continued on to find the Grand Canyon Camper Village, which we thought was in the Grand Canyon Village - it's not, it's in Tusayan just outside the South entrace to the park. We finally sorted this out and got ourselves installed at the RV park. It is not much to look at, but it has all the necessary amenities.

Being late in the day, we headed next door to the Grand Hotel where we were told there was a cowboy bar with a real, live cowboy singer. Reports were right, but the singer didn't come on until late evening. So we had happy hour and headed back to the coach for the night.

Wednesday morning, I did some repair and maintenance on the coach, including the cleaning of the front! Once again, we had a bay door come loose on the road, and once again it was due to a lost screw/bolt in the latch mechanism. Glad I bought 5 when we were in Harrisburg. This is the third one I have replaced. Now I add LockTite!

Around 10, Suz and I headed up 64 to the South entrance to the park in the car and started our tour of the South Rim. We began near the East entrance where we had arrived the day before. The first look came at Grandview vista. We were in awe! From there we headed back toward the visitors center with a stop at Pipe Creek Vista. Once at the visitors center, we boarded one of the shuttles and headed back out to Yaki Point, which is only accessible by bus, and where you get the first good view of the Colorado River. Each and every vista point was breathtaking! As you can wee, we are having fun!

The shuttles make three unique loops: the "green loop" goes East to Yaki Point; the "blue loop" covers the middle ground from the visitors center to the original lodges and hotels; and the "red loop" goes from the hotels to Hermit's Rest in the far West of the park. We stopped at the visitors center and visited Mather Point for another look at the canyon, then took the car to the market plaza where we had a late lunch. I have to say that Xanterra, which runs the concessions here and also at Zion, does a wonderful job with the food, and their prices are very reasonable!

After a late lunch, we headed back to the coach for happy hour and to tidy up some items. On the trip back to the coach, we spotted a Coyote on the side of the road, and later a herd of Elk. Well, Suzanne was thrilled, being the animal lover she is! She got a photo of some of the Elk, but missed the Coyote. Oh well, there is always tomorrow!

The weather had turned nasty when we arrived at the coach with a bit of rain, then a lot of rain and high wind while we were at happy hour. And the temperature had begun to turn cold. Overnight, we had the furnaces on and there was frost on the ground this morning. But the sky was crystal clear blue with not a cloud in sight.

Suz decided to stay at the coach and get caught up on the wash and things, and I headed off to take in the sights on the "red loop". It is the longest of the shuttle loops and is very scenic. But first, I had to stop at Yavapai Geology Museum for a better understanding of the canyon and its formation. The following quotes and paraphrases from the park brochure.

"The rocks exposed within the Grand Canyon range from fairly young (relatively speaking) to relatively old. Kaibab Limestone, which forms the caprock (white section) on the rims of the canyon, formed 270 million years ago. The oldest rock within the Inner Gorge at the bottom of the canyon date to 1,840 million years ago. for comparison, the earth is estimated to be 4,550 million years old."

"Beginning about 70 million years ago, heat and pressure generated by two colliding tectonic plates induced mountain building in western North America. An area known as the Colorado Plateau was raised more than 10,000 feet but was spared most of the deformation and alteration associated with most uplifting of strata."

This high plateau is the canvas upon which the Colorado River carved the canyon. Over its 277 miles, the canyon varies in width from the South Rim, ranging between 8 and 16 miles across. The photo from the museum shows the layers through which the river carved the canyon over the past 70 million years - incredible isn't it? (NOTE: If you double click on a photo, it will go full screen)

Thank goodness the sun was shining brightly and the sky was clear blue! I stopped at Powell Point first and got some good shots. Then back on the next bus 15 minutes later and on to Hermits Rest. The building was designed by a female architect in the early 1900s. It is built of stone right on the edge of the precipice, and was a favorite destination for the earliest travelers to the canyon. the large stone fireplace was a preferred spot after a long days travel on horseback.

After a time, it was back on the next bus for the return trip to the hotel area. When I arrived, it was around 11:15 and the line-up for the "red loop" bus was around 100-plus people, meaning at least a 30 minute wait to board a bus

The hotel area is also the terminus of the Santa Fe railroad spur that has brought visitors to the canyon for generations. the old station is still in operation and trains still arrive on a regular basis. Having finished the tour, I headed back to the coach. Suz and I then went across the street to the IMAX theater and took in the Grand Canyon film - it is spectacular, and we agreed it was a great way to end our visit to this magnificent area. Tomorrow we leave for yet another great adventure - Navajo National Monument, and later, Monument Valley where we will spend the next couple of days. Until then, Cheers!

John, Suz and Dixie the Wonderdog

September 20 - Days 99 and 100 - Zion National Park

Sunday was our day of rest. I cleaned the front of the coach and Suz did some washing. Later we headed to Buffalo Bistro, the only restaurant/pub within 10 or so miles, which was 500 yards up the street from the RV park. It is owned by "Ron Terry and Deborah Upastri." Ron is a 6'5" refugee from Salt Lake City and Deborah is a Swiss educated Maltese who owns 100 acres in the area and raises Alpaca. The restaurant serves only beer, and produces some really great food. We have it on our agenda for Monday night dinner.

Tuesday was our day to travel to Zion National Park. We left the coach at 9:30 and headed down US 89 to Mt. Carmel. Then it was West on Utah 9 to the park. The road to the park is nothing too spectacular, but once past the park entrance ($25 if you don't have the magic "Seniors Pass - $10 for life!), the scenery becomes overwhelming! the road is under construction for a good part of the way, and is one lane through the mile + long tunnel. The scenery on all sides is breathtaking, and so different from that in Bryce National Park.

There are two delays on the road: a signal for a short stretch of one-lane traffic early on; then a much longer delay waiting for a stretch of one-lane traffic that starts at the East end of the tunnel and extends for a mile or so past the West end of the tunnel. The road is red dirt that coats the vehicle. But the delays give opportunity for photos. For example, the interesting Checkerboard Mesa (6,670 ft.), and later on, Zion Arch.

The visitor's center is located at the West end of the park, and that is where one boards the shuttles for the six mile trip into the Zion canyon. No private vehicles are allowed into the canyon during the Summer and Fall months. Once in the canyon, you are surrounded by vertical cliffs of red and white sandstone deposited on what is known as the Colorado Plateau, which covers a large part of the "four corners" area of Utah, Arizona, Colorado and New Mexico.

It is the erosion of the uplifted Plateau that has created Zion, Bryce and The Grand Canyon, among other scenic attractions. In Zion's case, the erosion was accomplished by what would appear to be the tiny Virgin River. But it is not so tiny at certain times of year.

The scenery is truly spectacular as you can clearly see. First, it the Three Patriarchs, then myriad spectacular sandstone faces and domes. At the end of the six mile road is the Temple of Sinawava, where the Virgin River gorge becomes impassable by vehicle. One can walk up the gorge to where it is so narrow that it becomes only riverbed and vertical sandstone cliffs on both sides.

The shuttles are free and provide a narrative on Zion during the trip into the canyon. There are 7 stops in each direction where passengers can got of, take hikes and then catch another shuttle later on. It is a very well thought out system that avoids what would otherwise be a massive traffic jam.

Back at the visitors center, Suz and I took the car up the road to the Zion Natural History Museum and watched a 20 minute film on the park. I bought the DVD on the way out for anyone interested in a great tour of the park.

On the return trip to the coach, we stopped at a Utah rock shop and Suz bought some stones and other memorabilia. Then it was back to the coach, take Dixie for a (long) walk and head up the road for dinner at the Buffalo Bistro and a visit with Ron and Deborah. We had the specialty of the house -a combination of Buffalo and Wild Boar ribs. We also talked to the locals and learn the real story about the area! The food was outstanding, especially the raspberry cobbler for desert! Highly recommended if you are in the area!

Tomorrow we leave Glendale and head South on US 89 to visit the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, then around to the South Rim where we have an RV site for three nights. Until then, Cheers!

John, Suz and Dixie the Wonderdog

September 18 - Day 98 - Red Canyon and Bryce NP

After a slow morning, Suz and I decided to put Dixie in the car and travel North to Bryce National Park. The round trip is some 150 miles from the campground, all of it on good roads and most of it with a 65 mph speed limit. The first leg is on US 89 and you can see a bit of what is in store to the East of the highway. After 35 or so miles, we turned East on Utah 12 and enter Dixie National Forest (which Dixie the Wonderdog thought was nice) in which the magnificent Red Canyon and later on Bryce National Park are located.

Passing through Red Canyon, you get your first close-up taste of the beauty that erosion can create in this red environment. Hoodoos and tunnels are the order of the day. About 16 or so miles in on Utah 12 is the entrance to Bryce National Park, and the grandeur begins (and the park is nice too)! The first two vistas are Sunrise and Sunset Points, truly magnificent with the fins and hoodoos in the foreground and Dixie national Forest in the background.

The entire trip into Bryce is 18 mile dead-end road ending at Rainbow Point. In between are numerous pull-outs where you can enjoy the beauty of the park - and beauty is an understatement! One particularly interesting point is Natural Bridge (8,627 feet above sea level), a naturally formed arch adjacent to the road. Rainbow Point provides a wonder vista of most of the park from the highest elevation in the park - 9,119 feet above sea level!

Suz and I couldn't get over the majesty of the area, and are looking forward to visiting Zion National Park on Monday. Until then, Cheers!

John, Suz and Dixie the Wonderdog (who is healing rapidly!)

September 18 - Days 96 -97 Las Vegas and on to Glendale

Thursday was our day to have the over heating problem with the coach resolved. We departed the Las Vegas Motorcoach Resort at 7:00 in order to make our 8:00 appointment at Las Vegas Freightliner, which we did. The Service Manager, Gilles Gagne, told us it would be a couple of hours to do the full diagnosis, then repair would depend on whether or not they had the parts. If it was a thermostat, no problem. If it was the fan clutch, then the part would have to be shipped in overnight from Memphis. Wouldn't you know - it was the fan clutch.

Gilles said the part would arrive between 10 and 12 on Friday and would take 4 hours to install. So, after filling the car with gas, and the coach with diesel, we headed back to the Las Vegas Motorcoach Resort for an additional night, and called our next two destinations to delay our arrival by a day.

Friday, we took the coach in at 9:30 and Gilles said he would start dismantling the fan right away so we could get on our way as soon as possible. 'With that we headed to a shopping mall in Summerlin to pick up a few things. Then the fun started! I was waiting outside the WalMart sitting on a bench with Dixie. The bench was expanded metal with many small holes. Dixie decided to jump off, two of her rear toenails got caught in one of the holes and we were off to the vet. Three and a half hours later and $405 poorer, Dixie was coming out of the anesthetic with a bandaged left rear leg and a load of medication. No broken bones, but an ugly pair of toenails.

We headed back to Freightliner at 2:00 and were greeted by a finished job. I have to say, the Las Vegas Freightliner Oasis dealership, and particularly Gilles Gagne, are to be commended for a job well and quickly done. By 3:00 we were on the road to Glendale, Utah with a somewhat intoxicated Dixie (she slept the whole trip).

Our route out of Las Vegas followed US 15 North, which passes through high desert, surrounded by mountains. It also has some long grades that tested our new fan clutch - success, no overheating! US 15 North passes through a chunk of Arizona and into Utah through the spectacular Virgin River gorge, the narrowest gorge I have ever seen. (Find the gorge in the picture) Putting a highway through this piece of rock was a work of engineering genius! The walls of the gorge are almost vertical and the grade quite steep. Exiting the gorge, one arrives at St. George, Utah, a very attractive town surrounded by red sandstone and rock.

We then proceeded East on Utah 9 to Hurricane. From here, we chose not to go directly through Zion National Park on highway 9, but rather to head South into Arizona on Utah 59/ Arizona 389 to Fredonia, then North on US 89 to Glendale. The route was longer, but much faster and with less severe hills. The route also parallels gorgeous red mountains for nearly its full length to US 89.

The sun was setting as we headed up the last 20 miles or so into Glendale and Bauers Canyon Ranch RV Park (elevation 5800 feet). We arrived at what we thought was 6:30, but because we had gone back into Mountain Time, it was really 7:30 and almost dark. We got set up, had a quick dinner and called it a day - what a day - especially for Dixie!

This morning we are taking care of odds-and-ends then we will head into Zion National Park. As you can see in the window of the coach, Suzanne is happy to be here. I will have photos and commentary later. Until then, Cheers!

John, Suz and Dixie the (wounded) Wonderdog