Sunday, September 5, 2010

September 5 - Days 82 - 85 - Crescent City

We departed Coos Bay around 9:00 on Friday, September 3, heading down highway 101. We got to 101 by going into Coos Bay, a bit of a detour, but one that avoided either Libby Lane and Shinglehouse Road, or the equally twisty alternative of Seven Devils Road.

The trip down 101 is slower than I 5, but it is so much more enjoyable. The road winds its way down the Oregon and California coasts and passes through numerous small towns and villages. First was Bandon, where golfers will know the famous Bandon Dunes golf course is located. If I had realized I was this close, I would have visited the course - it is magnificent. We stopped for a rest and some photos further on at Port Orford, Oregon. Suzanne was totally enthralled by the "huge rocks" in the ocean.

Passing through Gold Beach and Brookings, we wound our way down the coast with breathtaking scenery at every turn. Then it was into California and our destination for the next three nights - Hiouchi Hamlet RV Park. Hiouchi is just outside Crescent City on the edge of the Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park. Jedediah Smith is one of a chain of state and national parks where redwoods are protected that extend down the California coast for 40 to 50 miles. The protected land is being added to over time as more land owners donate their redwood forests to the preserve and more land is purchased by various foundations.

To get to Hiouchi, one has to travel inland 9 or 10 miles on either highway 197 or 199, and you guessed it, the roads are twisty - fun for a motorcycle, but not so much fun for a motorhome. The RV park is nice, bit a bit barren for being in the midst of the magnificent redwoods. We got set up and took a tour of the local area. Crescent City is not much. There is fishing, surfing, logging, and alternative lifestyle types by the score. The folks here take pride in distinguishing themselves as part of the "Jefferson Republic" of Northern California and different from the Californians to the South. There are very few restaurants in town, so we headed back to the coach for the old standby - Bubba Burgers!

Saturday morning, I was up early in order to hit the road on the bike, but the fog was in so I had to loaf for awhile. Oh well, loafing is good too! With the fog gone, I hopped on the bike and headed further inland on highway 199 (the route to Grant's Pass, Oregon). After 15 miles or so, I retraced my steps heading into Crescent City through the magnificent redwoods. Unfortunately, Crescent City was still enshrouded in fog, and was COLD, so I headed back to the coach on highway 197. At the coach, the sun was shining and Suz was up and around. Before heading out for a tour of the redwoods, Suz and I had lunch (Coos Bay crab meat sandwiches!). then I cleaned the front of the coach - again!

Our tour of old growth redwoods took us inland on highway 199 then onto the Douglas Hill/ Howland Hill Road and through the most pristine part of the Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park. Here one sees old growth redwoods that are hundreds of years old and stand more than 300 feet tall. They are truly awe inspiring. Within the park is the Stout Grove, probably the best preserved stand of old growth redwoods in the world. More information and a closer look is available at http://www.redwoodhikes.com/Jed%20Smith/Stout%20Grove.html.

We took a walk through Stout Grove and were enthralled to say the least. It is simply magnificent with its majestic redwoods and ground cover of waist-high sword ferns. Everyone must see this wonderful place. The road through the park is not paved and is NARROW. The dust is pretty bad, but the experience is well worth the trip.

Exiting the forest at Crescent City, we headed South along highway 101 to visit the "Tour-Through Tree" in Klamath, a redwood carved to allow cars to pass through its trunk. It's a tourist trap I know, but .... However, while we fell for the Tour-Through Tree, we passed up the "Trees of Mystery" attraction with its gondola ride through the redwoods. Back in Crescent City, we stopped at a local watering hole for happy hour, then headed back to the coach for a couple of filets. Life is good!

This morning was the time to get caught up on email, take care of bills, and generally put the house in order for our departure tomorrow. Around noon I hopped on the bike for a last ride through the redwoods. The twisty roads are great, and the scenery can't be beat.

The Smith River runs through the Jedediah Smith Redwoods Park and is a beautiful emerald green. I can't help but imagine how it would be to fish this river! But, maybe next time. One thing for sure, we will stay in nice places a lot longer next time than we are this time.

Now its time to head into Crescent City for our last happy hour. Then, tomorrow, it is off to San Francisco! Until then, Cheers!

John, Suz and Dixie the Wonderdog

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